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Meat Boregs - Detroit style

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I'm back!


After two years of preparation and anticipation, the 111thDiocesan Assembly and Clergy Conference held in beautiful Boca Raton FL concluded on Sunday, May 5th.
It was a whirlwind week of events with hundreds of attendees from mid western, east coast, and southern states. In addition to the planned sessions and meetings, guests participated in luncheons, kef time (featuring the music of Johnny Berberian), area sightseeing, and a gala banquet honoring Armenians of the Year – Janet and Edward Mardigian, and Friend of the Armenians – former Florida Governor, Jeb Bush. The week-long gathering culminated with a lavish farewell Sunday brunch.

I had a mini part in the grand scheme of things, but it was exciting just the same. Many of our seasonal visitors rolled up their sleeves alongside local parishioners to help create the massive menu for the farewell brunch. 
Boreg-Lahmajoun Table

Dessert Table
Serving stations were set with assorted salads, yalanchi, lahmajoun, cheese boregs, meat boregs, and hummus. A carving station offered sliced-to-order roast beef, ham and turkey. Desserts included kourabia cookies, paklava, semolina cakes, fruit kabobs, and more. The beverage station served-up Mimosas (orange juice and champagne), plain orange juice, and coffee to help wash everything down.

Weeks before the brunch, I was at church working on another aspect of the preparation while a group of seasonal parishioners from Detroit were in the kitchen making the meat boregs. They made Dolly Matoian’s recipe which came from St. John Armenian Church (Detroit) cookbook. This is not a ‘home version’ recipe as it yields 375 to 400 boregs, and requires 20 workers over a 2-day period to complete. 
 
Detroit-style Meat Boreg
Instead of using phyllo dough or puff pastry, the dough was more chorag-like. The meat filling had a nice ‘kick’ from the blend of black pepper and cayenne pepper in the filling. I got to sample a test boreg as it came out of the oven – it was soft, warm, and so delicious!
I have made an attempt to break down the large-group recipe for the home kitchen, but be warned - I have not tested this version. The new ingredient amounts represent 1/8th the original recipe measurements.

The smaller recipe should yield about 45 to 50 boregs, and I would suggest having one or two extra pairs of hands to assist. Oh yes, it’s important to prepare the meat mixture one day in advance.

Please don’t be discouraged by the lengthy recipe. One thing is for sure, I can certainly appreciate the time and effort the Detroit ladies put into this recipe, and I truly did savor every bite!

Here’s the (untested) home version recipe…

Meat Boreg (Beoreg)                                   Yield: 45 to 50 pieces

Filling Ingredients:
1 lb. chopped onions
3 Tbsp. vegetable oil
1 ¾ lbs. ground lamb
1 ¾ lb. ground sirloin (or chuck)
¾ tsp. salt
¼ tsp. black pepper
¼ tsp. cayenne pepper
½ tsp. paprika
¾ lb. (3 sticks) butter
¾ c. dried parsley (or 1 cup fresh, chopped parsley)

Dough Ingredients:
¼ lb. (1 stick) butter
¼ cup vegetable shortening
1¼ c. milk
5 eggs
1 Tbsp. sugar
1 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. dry granular yeast
½ cup warm water
2 ¼ tsp. sugar
 1 ½ tsp. salt
3 ¼ lb. all-purpose flour (approx. 12 cups)
Egg wash
2 eggs, beaten
Topping:
Regular or black sesame seeds 


Directions:
Day 1:
1. Heat vegetable oil in a skillet. Saute onions until soft, but not mushy. Strain onions in a colander, pressing firmly to remove any liquid. Set aside until ready to use.
2. In a large frying pan, cook lamb and beef over medium heat until brown. Break meat down with a fork to remove any large lumps. Strain out any excess fat.
3. Place cooked onions and meat in a large mixing bowl. Stir in all of the seasonings. Taste for flavor and spiciness. Make any adjustments, if necessary.
4. Melt the butter in a skillet and add to the meat-onion mixture. Finally, add the chopped parsley.
5. Place mixture in shallow containers; cover and refrigerate until day 2.

Day 2
Directions for Dough Preparation:
1. Melt butter and shortening in a saucepan. Allow to cool. Add milk to butter mixture; set aside.
2. Using a hand or stand mixer and a large bowl, beat eggs and sugar until well-blended.
3. Begin adding flour, a little at a time, to the egg mixture for a uniform mixture.
4. In a medium bowl, combine the ½ c. warm water, yeast and sugar, whisking to dissolve. Cover with plastic wrap and allow to proof.
5, Add proofed yeast to the flour mixture and knead dough well.
6. Using a food scale, portion the dough into 1 ½ to 2 oz. portions; place on trays, cover with plastic wrap or parchment paper and allow to rest.
7. Portion the meat into 1/12 to 2 oz. portions.
8. On a work surface (no flour should be needed), roll each dough portion into 4-inch circles, and place on platters.

Forming and baking the boregs:
9. Hold each round of dough in one hand; top with meat mixture. Pinch or fold the dough over the meat to completely seal the filling.
10. Place – seam side down – on parchment-lined baking sheets. Lightly press down to make a bun shape instead of a ball shape. Continue the process until the trays are filled. Allow boregs to rest about 15 minutes before baking.
11. Bake in preheated 375°F oven (350°F for convection oven) until golden.
12. Place baked boregs on cooling racks; cool completely. If not serving immediately, place borges in freezer bags in single layers, and freeze until ready to use.
13. Prior to serving, defrost boregs in the refrigerator, and bake in preheated 325°F oven until warmed through.







A new Armenian Cookbook: “HAYGAGAN AVANTAGAN KHOHANOTS” –“Armenian Traditional Cuisine”

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I am delighted and excited to announce the release of a new Armenian cookbook. This one was created by Sonia Tashjian, and I have no doubt that it is marvelous. The catch is this: it’s written in Armenian, so if you’re like me, we’ll have to hope that an English version becomes available. However, if you are fortunate enough to have the ability to read and understand the Armenian language, I urge you to seek out this cookbook.

I marvel at Sonia’s dedication and determination to research, test, and incorporate almost-forgotten recipes into a cookbook for the current - and future – generation of cooks. 

Thank you, Sonia – and - Paree Akhorjag!

The cover of Sonia Tashjian's cookbook
Here is a description of Sonia's cookbook

“HAYGAGAN AVANTAGAN KHOHANOTS” –“Armenian Traditional Cuisine”
By Sonia Tashjian

Sonia’s cookbook consists of 223 pages and has 8 parts:  soup, main dish, dolma, kololak - or- kufta, pilaf, salad, bread, and dessert. It contains 200 old, traditional recipes that have never been improvised; Sonia presents these as they are.  She has gathered the recipes from villagers, old historical books and dictionaries.  Each recipe has its picture, a brief explanation about its origin, a traditional explanation, if any was available, and mentions the regional name to whichit belongs. At the end of the book there is an index and a small dictionary.
The book is published by MARANIK LTD, which is a food (specially beans and herbs) production company in Armenia. For pricing and ordering information, please contact MARANIK LTD directly at: info@maranik.am.

A Golden Opportunity!! Please read on...

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Sonia's new cookbook

In my last post, I announced the publication of Sonia Tashjian’s new Armenian cookbook, “HAYGAGAN AVANTAGAN KHOHANOTS” –“Armenian Traditional Cuisine”, the catch being that it’s written completely in Armenian.
For those of us unable to read or write in our mother language, this poses a problem.
Sonia Tashjian offered the following service in a comment at the end of that post :
“I'll be so glad if a volunteer helps me to translate some of them. I will send her/him the recipe in Armenian, then we will ask Robyn to publish it in her website of course with the picture. Thank you.”
Ladies and Gentlemen, we must not pass up this golden opportunity!
If anyone reading this can translate from Armenian into English, and is willing to work with Sonia and The Armenian Kitchen, please contact me at: robyn@thearmeniankitchen.com, and I will send your contact information to Sonia. Perhaps we, as a team, can preserve even more precious Armenian recipes. 
What do you say, any volunteers??

Easy Roejig (Rojik) a.k.a 'Sweet Soujuk' - is that even possible?

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I love roejig (aka 'sweet soujuk'), a traditional Armenian candy made from walnuts which are strung on long strings and thickly coated in fruit syrup. I ate a piece of roejig a few weeks ago, and with the first bite, I was taken back to my youth – specifically my maternal grandmother’s dining room where she would serve this on special occasions. It’s one of those recipes that I enjoy eating (sparingly), but don’t necessarily want to prepare. 
 
Traditional Roejig (Photo from GeorgeFamily.net)
I posted the roejig recipe once before, but since a reader requested the recipe the other day, I figured I’d mention it again. The recipe I included in the original post came from the A.G.B.U.’s ‘Treasured Armenian Cookbook’

Here’s the reader’s request:
“An Armenian friend of mine made me taste the "sweet sujuk", the one with walnuts inside and coated with a grape (brown) syrup... and I have to say it was delicious (with a tiny spicy aroma). Unfortunately, since her mother cooked the thing, she was unable to provide me the recipe.... any hint on where to find the sweet sujuk recipe? Thanks a lot!”

Making roejig is a tedious, time-consuming process. I wondered if there could possibly be an easier way to make this sweet delight.
Alice Bezjian to the rescue! In her cookbook, ‘The Complete Armenian Cookbook’, I discovered a less labor-intensive version of roejig. Does it pass the taste test? I don’t honestly know; her recipe has not been tested in The Armenian Kitchen. (Sorry!)

Compare the recipe below with the original one and you’ll see the difference.

(Easier) Grape Juice Rojik (Roejig)
from Alice Bezjian’s, ‘The Complete Armenian Cookbook’
Ingredients:
            Cornstarch    1 1⁄2 Cups
            Water              4 Cups
            Sugar            5 Cups
            Concentrated grape juice   1 Cup
            Walnut halves, shelled       1⁄2 Pound
Directions:
1. Combine the cornstarch with the 1 cup water in a mixing bowl and stir to dissolve.
2. Add 1 cup more water.
3. Pour the mixture through a strainer to remove the lumps. Set aside.
4. In a saucepan combine the sugar and concentrated grape juice in 2 cups of the water.
5. Over medium heat, stir until sugar is dissolved.
6. Gently stir one-half of the sugar mixture into the starch mixture. Then add the remaining sugar mixture and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, for 20 minutes, or until the mixture thickens.
7. Reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring, about 1 hour, or until the mixture forms threadlike pieces when dropped into cold water.
8. Pour half the mixture into an 11x7-inch pan liberally dusted with cornstarch.
9. Press walnut halves into the mixture in 3 or 4 close rows.
10. Pour the remaining mixture over the nuts.
11. Sprinkle with more cornstarch.
12. Cover with plastic wrap for at least 10 hours.
13. Using the walnut rows as your guide, cut the rojik into 3 or 4 rows.
14. Generously roll each strip into cornstarch.
15. Wrap each roll separately in wax paper and freeze until you are ready to serve.
Then unwrap, bring to room temperature, and cut into slices about a quarter inch thick.

Chilled Cream of Zucchini Soup with Fresh Basil

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This 'chilled cream of zucchini and basil soup' recipe was handed down to me by a former culinary colleague. I came across it as I was going through my vast recipe collection, and thought it a perfect dish to pass along - especially since it combines yogurt, zucchini, and fresh basil.

It’s a refreshing way to keep cool, and well-nourished during the hot summer months. 

Chilled Cream of Zucchini Soup with Fresh Basil
Serves 4

Ingredients:
1 Tbsp. olive oil
¼ cup sweet onion, chopped
¼ tsp. salt
3 medium zucchini, washed, ends trimmed, and sliced into ¼-inch circles
2 cups chicken (or vegetable) broth
1/3 cup fresh basil leaves
1/3 cup light cream
½ cup plain, low fat yogurt
Dash white pepper
Garnish: Basil sprigs 

Directions:
1. Heat oil in a 4-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and salt; sauté, stirring occasionally, until onions are transparent.
2. Add zucchini and broth; bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low and simmer the mixture, uncovered, for 20 minutes. Add the basil leaves.
3. Puree the soup in a blender.

4. Place pureed soup in a large bowl. Stir in the cream, yogurt and white pepper.
5. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.
6. Serve in chilled bowls, and garnish with basil sprigs.

Crunchy Cauliflower Broccoli Slaw

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Robyn (L) Maro (R)

When I met a cousin, Maro Nalabandian, through my website, I was excited. When I learned she had a culinary background, I was thrilled! Since meeting her face-to-face this past April, we’ve been in touch, sharing family updates, and recipes.

Here is one of Maro’s recipes that’s not only nutritious, but colorful, tasty and good for you, too!

Crunchy Cauliflower Broccoli Slaw
Recipe by Maro Nalabandian      
 
This healthy and delicious recipe is great to eat with your meals as your vegetable/salad or, this may also satisfy your urge in between meals. 

Vegetable ingredients:
4 cups diced cauliflower
4 cups diced broccoli
1 cup diced celery
3 large carrots, grated
1/2 a small onion, finely diced
3/4 cup dark raisins
3/4 cup dried cranberries
3/4 cup sunflower seeds or pumpkin seeds, roasted

 Vinaigrette:
1 tsp. Dijon mustard
1 clove garlic, finely minced
1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar or herb vinegar
2 tsp. Agave sweetener
Juice of 1/2 a lemon
1 tsp. coarse salt, or to taste
1/2 tsp. black pepper, or to taste
1/4 tsp. dried oregano or 1 sprig fresh oregano leaves, minced
1/4 tsp. dried thyme or 2 sprigs fresh thyme leaves, minced
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup canola oil
1/4 cup bottled water, as needed

Directions:
1. In a large serving bowl, add the above vegetable ingredients and set aside. 
2. In a two cup measuring cup, add all the vinaigrette ingredients except the oils and the water.  Whisk the ingredients while very slowly pouring in the oils until combined.  Add the water as needed to taste, while whisking till all is combined.  Pour the vinaigrette, as much as desired, over the vegetable slaw then toss it around.
Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Garden-Fresh Recipes from Maro Nalabandian

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This past June, Maro Nalabandian (my newly discovered cousin whom I mentioned in a previous post) was the guest chef at the University of Maryland’s Master Garden “Grow It; Eat It” open house event. A master gardener herself, Maro demonstrated how to make a variety of recipes which focused on the theme, ’From the Garden to the Kitchen Table’. Her recipes included: Cool and Refreshing Yogurt Drink with Mint, Garden Fresh Greek Orzo Salad, Herb Frittata/Omelet, Fines Herbs Butter, and Macerated Fruit in Sweetened Lemon Verbena Syrup. (See below)

Throughout her career, Maro has cooked alongside many celebrity chefs.  She has also worked at Michel Richard Citronelle and The Ritz Carlton, and has taught at L’Academie de Cuisine. She volunteers for Martha’s Table, DC Central Kitchen and Manna Foods.  In addition, Maro has a large community garden plot where she grows vegetables and herbs which are later used in her creative cooking and recipe testing.
I thank Maro for sharing her recipes with us at TheArmenianKitchen!


Maro pouring the yogurt drink


Cool and Refreshing Yogurt Drink with Mint
Ingredients:
32 oz.  Whole milk, Plain Greek Yogurt
1 tsp. Sea Salt, or as needed
2 ½ cups bottled ice cold Water, or more liquid to taste
1 tsp. dried Mint, crushed between fingers
1 Tbsp. fresh Mint leaves, finely minced
Ice Cubes
 Directions:
~In a large bowl, empty and whip yogurt till smooth and silky and there are no lumps
~Add the salt, the fresh mint leaves, as well as the crushed, dried mint to the yogurt
~ Slowly pour water while whisking
~Give a taste test, then pour into a pitcher with ice and serve

 Garden Fresh Greek Orzo Salad
Ingredients:
1 lb. Orzo, cooked according to directions in packaging
3 Cloves Garlic, crushed and finely minced
Juice and zest of 1 Lemon
½ cup of Extra Virgin Olive Oil
½ tsp. Sea Salt, as needed
¼ tsp. freshly ground Black Pepper, as needed
½ a Medium Red Onion, finely chopped
½ cup of Kalamata Olives, pitted and halved
10 oz. Grape Tomatoes, sliced in halves
2 cups garden fresh Cucumbers, diced in cubes
1 ½ cups imported Feta crumbled in pieces
1/3 cup of Fresh Mint leaves, finely chopped
1/3 cup Greek Oregano, finely chopped
1/3 cup Parsley, finely chopped
4 cups spinach fresh from your garden or 1pkg. fresh organic mini spinach
 Directions:
~In a large serving bowl, empty the drained and cooked Orzo, set aside to cool
~In a Pyrex glass measuring cup, add the garlic, lemon juice, lemon zest, salt and pepper, then whisk the vinaigrette while drizzling in the olive oil, 
~Into the cooled Orzo bowl, add the salad ingredients and the vinaigrette, then mix all together and serve

Maro chopping herbs
Herb Frittata/Omelet
Ingredients:
5 Eggs, whipped
1 small Zucchini, grated
1 bunch Parsley Leaves, finely chopped
1 tsp. dried Mint
¼ cup fresh Mint leaves, chopped
½ bunch Scallions, finely diced, as needed
½ tsp. Salt, as needed
¼ tsp. freshly ground Black Pepper
4 cloves Garlic, finely minced
½ tsp. Marash Red Pepper
2 Tbsp. Olive Oil
 Directions:
~In a large bowl, whip the eggs
~Add all the above ingredients (except the olive oil), whip till frothy
~In a non-stick skillet, heat the olive oil
~Empty all the ingredients into the skillet and cook until bottom is golden and has set
~Slide omelet into a large plate
~Turn the pan over on top of the plate while holding tightly, and turn over the plate to cook the other side of the omelet in the pan
~Let it cook till golden, then empty on a serving dish and cut the omelet in pie shaped wedges and serve

Fines Herbs Butter
Ingredients:
1 lb. unsalted Butter, room temperature
1tsp. Sea salt, or as needed
1 Tbsp. Chives, finely chopped
1 Tbsp. Tarragon, finely chopped
1Tbsp. Flat leaf Parsley, finely chopped
1 Tbsp. Chervil, finely chopped
1 tsp. dried Thyme crushed between fingers (opt.)
1 tsp. Anchovy paste (opt.)
French Baguette, thinly sliced and toasted
1 bunch fresh Radishes, washed and thinly sliced (opt.)
 Directions:
~Whip butter in mixer or processor with all the items above
~Give a taste test to adjust flavoring
~To Serve: Empty Fines Herbs Butter mixture in a bowl, spread a bit of the Herb Butter on the baguette and top with a radish slice
~To Freeze: Empty butter mixture on to a long cut plastic wrap and roll as a sausage and twist both ends, double wrap and freeze
~When ready to use, remove from freezer, let it stay at room temperature, or refrigerate till soft enough to cut in slices, and make a circular butter plate of it.

Macerated Fruit in Sweetened Lemon Verbena
Ingredients:
1 cup Sugar
½ cup Bottled Water
1 Tbsp. Fresh Lemon juice
1 cup Lemon Verbena leaves, packed
1 lb. Strawberries, washed
¼ cup Fresh Mint leaves

Directions:
~In a small saucepan, add sugar, water, lemon juice, and bring to boil
~Add the lemon verbena leaves
~Simmer for 10 minutes, then remove from heat and let it cool
~Meanwhile, quarter the strawberries into a wide bowl
~Remove the verbena leaves from the syrup
~Drizzle the syrup over the Strawberries, mix 
~Slice the fresh mint leaves very thinly and sprinkle over the strawberries
~Serve with whipped cream and crumbles or shortbread (opt.)

Grilled Watermelon with Yogurt Topping

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Michael Psilakis


Do you remember the post where Doug and I met ChefMichael Psilakis? We were thrilled to have met him in person and receive an autographed copy of his cookbook, “How to Roast a Lamb”. 

Chef Michael is passionate about his family and career, and is extremely down-to-earth. If we lived near any of his New York restaurants, we’d certainly be regular diners.  Instead, we are content to watch him on TV - and I follow him on Facebook.

Grilled Watermelon and Yogurt
(Image from Food and Wine)
In one of his recent Facebook posts, Chef Michael shared a recipe for grilled watermelon with yogurt. Since it’s summer and the temperature is soaring, I felt this would be a refreshing recipe to pass along. 

In Chef Michael’s version, he prepares this on an outdoor grill. I’ve not only adjusted this recipe to suit our taste, I also use my indoor, counter top George Foreman grill for this recipe – no fuss, no muss, and no excessive heat! Naturally, use whichever type of grill you like.

Don’t want to heat up a grill? No problem! Skip grilling the watermelon altogether, and call this ‘Chilled Watermelon with Yogurt Topping’. If you prefer the non-grilled method, you can omit step 3 which calls for drizzling oil on the melon slices, and sprinkling with salt and pepper.
Here’s my version of Chef Michael Psilakis’ Grilled Watermelon with Yogurt.

Grilled Watermelon with Yogurt Topping

Topping Ingredients:
    1 cup plain low-fat yogurt (Greek-style, or plain yogurt which has been strained)
    (Chef Michael uses whole-milk plain Greek yogurt)
    1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
    1 tsp. lemon zest
    1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
    Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
    ¼ cup chopped fresh mint leaves, divided
    8 to 10 (1-inch) triangular watermelon slices     

Directions:   
1. In a bowl, combine the yogurt with the lemon juice, zest, 2 Tbsp. of the chopped mint, and 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Mix in salt and pepper to taste.
(Chef Michael suggests making the yogurt topping one day in advance, refrigerating it overnight and bringing it to room temperature before serving.)
2. Heat the George Foreman grill on high with the lid closed. (Mine doesn’t have any heat settings, so it’s always on high heat.)
3. Drizzle the watermelon triangles with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place 2 melon slices on the GF grill at a time, close the lid, and grill until nicely charred, about 1 minute. Continue grilling until all melon slices are done.
 4. Transfer melon to serving plates. Top each slice with a dollop of yogurt sauce. Drizzle with olive oil; garnish with the remaining mint and serve.

In Search of an Authentic Recipe for Etchmiadzin Dolma (Tolma)

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Holy Etchmiadzin


A comment recently posted on our dolma story from 2009 presented the following questions:
“Robyn, can you explain, please - what the difference between (your) dolma and Etchmiadzin dolma , and , maybe you have an authentic recipe?”

I replied with two explanations describing Etchmiadzin dolma – see below - but could not locate a specific recipe for this dish. As far as I can surmise, the stuffing for Etchmiadzin dolma would be similar to most other dolma recipes – ground meat (perhaps pork mixed in with beef or lamb), rice, herbs, and seasonings.

Two explanations for Etchmiadzin Dolma (Tolma)
1. Gayane Mkrtchyan, ArmeniaNow.com reporter, offers this description:
“Armenian cuisine’s ‘top five tolma chart’ includes grape-leaf tolma, Etchmiadzin tolma (with cabbage and vegetables), Lent tolma, Yerevan tolma (like Etchmiadzin tolma with the addition of quinces), and Mush tolma made of chopped meat and bulgur.”
2. According to Wikipedia,” Etchmiadzin tolma utilizes eggplants, green peppers, tomatoes, apples, and quinces.”

 If anyone reading this can offer an authentic Etchmiadzin dolma recipe, please email robyn@thearmeniankitchen.com. It would be greatly appreciated! 

Versatile Spice Mix and Spicy Baked Fish recipes

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Ed Becharian, a Florida resident, is trying to recreate a spicy fish rub recipe once handed down to him by his mother. 
Here’s what he’s looking for:
“Once upon a time my Mom had given me a recipe for an Armenian "rub"... I lost the recipe a while back and have not been able to quite re-create it since....I do not remember the exact formulation but I do know that it had among a lot of ingredient salt/pepper/cumin/cayenne/paprika and sumac (?) and some herbs (?) ..... I believe it was used in the old country to spice a whole fish before deep frying....it was an outstanding spice rub even without frying and it tasted AMAZING on salmon, whitefish, snapper, you name it....anyway being a Floridian we buy/broil/bake a lot of fish and that's the fish recipe I have been hunting for....Mom used to make that with a tomato juice based pilaf rice that was our version of comfort food growing up.”  
 
The spice mix recipe I sent Ed (see below) can be used on fish, as well as lamb, beef, pork chicken, or sprinkled in soups, stews, or on vegetables. (There's a lot of pepper in this, so be warned!)

For Ed’s request, I suggested using the spices on a mild-flavored fish, such as tilapia or any white fish. The fish can either be baked, broiled, grilled, or fried. A recipe for ‘Spicy Baked Fish’ follows the spice recipe.

Once you’ve created the spice mixture, place it in a jar with a tight-fitting lid and store it in a pantry or cupboard. This should keep for about 2 to 3 months. Be sure to stir or shake the spice mixture before using in order to redistribute the ingredients.

Versatile Spice Mix
Versatile Spice Mix
Yield: approximately 1/2 cup
Ingredients:
3 tablespoons of paprika
1 teaspoon of garlic powder
1 teaspoon of ground white pepper
1 teaspoon of ground black pepper
1 tsp. of ground coriander seed
1/2 teaspoon of cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon of ground sumac
1 teaspoon of salt (or to taste)
 1 teaspoon of dried oregano
Directions:
Mix all of the ingredients together until well-blended. (NOTE: To be sure there are no lumps, you might want to sift the spices before adding the oregano.) Place in a jar with a tight-fitting lid and store in a cool, dry place for up to 3 months. Stir or shake mixture before using.



Spicy Baked Fish with Zucchini and Feta
Spicy Baked Fish
Serves 4
Ingredients:
1 pound white fish (Ex: tilapia, cod, haddock)
1 ½ to 2 tsp. versatile spice mix
1 tablespoonlemon juice
1 1/2 tablespoon oil
Directions:
1. Preheat oven to 350° F.
2. Cut fish into 4 equal pieces.
3. Spritz a 9x13x2 inch baking pan with vegetable spray. Place fish in prepared pan.
Spice mix in shaker
4. Drizzle lemon juice evenly over the fish. Sprinkle 1 ½ to 2 tsp. of the spice mix over the entire amount of fish. Drizzle oil over the top of the fish pieces. (NOTE: To make sprinkling the spice mix easy, I placed some is an empty salt shaker.)
5. Bake, uncovered, until fish flakes easily with a fork, about 20 to 25 minutes. NOTE: Amount of baking time will depend on the thickness of the fish. Thin fish bakes quickly!

What is Etchmiadzin Dolma?

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In answer to a recent inquiry about how Etchmiadzin dolma differs from regular dolma, Ara Kassabian offered a video link (in Armenian) showing how to make Etchmiadzin dolma, and the recipe, which he kindly translated into English. Ara notes that the main distinguishing characteristic of Etchmiadzin dolma, apparently, is the additional use of apples and quince.
Apples and Quince (Image from lavenderandlovage.com)


Click here to view the video. The video is in Armenian; even if you don't understand the language, you'll get the general idea.

Here is Ara's translation of the recipe. His comments are in bold print inside [square brackets].
Etchmiadzin Dolma

Stuffing ingredients:
1 kg (approx. 2.2 lbs.) of beef, ground
2 onions, finely chopped
1 cup rice [I suggest short-grained or ordinary long-grained--not Basmati]
Tomato paste
Salt, red pepper, black pepper
Mixed fresh herbs [Recipe does not say, but I would suggest parsley, plus mint or dill]
Vegetables:
1 head cabbage, outer leaves removed, inner leaves separated and blanched
1 kg (approx. 2.2 lbs.) of tomatoes
1 kg (approx. 2.2 lbs.) eggplant
500 g (approx. 1 lb.) green pepper
1 kg (approx. 2.2 lbs.) of apples
Sauce:
50 g (approx. 3 ½ Tbsp.) melted butter
Additional tomato paste

Directions:

1. Make the stuffing by mixing all the ingredients.
2. Core the vegetables [I usually add the core material back into the stuffing, but that is optional]. 
3. Fill the cored vegetables and the cabbage leaves with the stuffing [Note: Dolma in Eastern Armenia is made much larger than in Western Armenia].
4. Place a platter on the bottom of a pot and arrange the stuffed vegetables tightly on top of it. Cover with water and an inverted plate to keep everything in place [Note: The purpose of the plate at the bottom of the pot is to prevent the dolma from burning. I suggest using the leftover cabbage leaves, parsley stems, etc., instead]. Cover and cook for 40 minutes (high heat until the water boils, then lower to a simmer). 10 minutes before removing from the fire, add the melted butter and tomato paste.

Mutabal - Beet Dip or Spread

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When I posted a recipe for babaganoush, someone commented that they only knew the recipe as ‘mutabal’. I suppose the name difference is due to one’s familial region of origin. To most, both babaganoush and mutabal conjure up images of eggplant (aubergine), mashed with garlic, tahini, and a few other ingredients, and served as a dip or spread. 
Mutabal - Beet Dip/Spread

Here’s what Wikipedia has to say about this topic:
Baba ghanoush is a popular Levantine dish of eggplant (aubergine) mashed and mixed with various seasonings. Frequently the eggplant is baked or broiled over an open flame before peeling, so that the pulp is soft and has a smoky taste. Baba ghanoush is usually eaten as a dip with pita bread, and is sometimes added to other dishes. It is usually of an earthy light brown color.
Mutabbal
Similar to baba ganouj is another Levantine dish mutabbal (lit. 'spiced'), which also includes mashed cooked aubergines and tahini, and mixed with salt, pepper, olive oil, and anar seeds. Moutabel is sometimes said to be a spicier version of baba ghanoush.
In Armenia the dish is known as mutabal. The essential ingredients in Armenian mutabal are eggplant, tahini, garlic, lemon, and onion; and most Armenians also add cumin.

Eggplant, a very traditional Armenian ingredient,cannot be used in my home recipes due to my husband’s allergies. So when an acquaintance suggested making mutabal with beets, I was intrigued. 

When I made the recipeI used cannedbeets, and served it with toasted pita chips.
To make the pita chips, I cut pita bread into triangles, sprayed the tops with vegetable spray (olive oil PAM), and baked them in a 350 degree oven for 5 to 7 minutes.

Mutabal - Beet Dip or Spread

Ingredients:
2 large red beets, roasted or boiled, peeled, and cut into cubes (One 15-oz. can of beets – not marinated – can be substituted. Drain beets before using.)
2 Tbsp. tahini
2 Tbsp. plain yogurt
1 clove minced garlic
Juice of one lemon
Salt and pepper, to taste
Optional toppings: olive oil, toasted pine nuts, or chopped parsley

Directions:
1. Process cooked, peeled (or canned, drained) beets in a food processor. Drain excess liquid. Add remaining ingredients – exceptfor those listed as toppings– and process until smooth and well-combined.
2. Place mixture in a serving bowl. Before serving, drizzle top with olive oil. Garnish with toasted pine nuts or chopped parsley. Serve with pita bread triangles, pita chips, or vegetable dippers.

‘Agra Hadig’, another Armenian tradition - or is it?

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Is the tradition of ‘Agra Hadig’ Armenian, or one that Armenians have adopted?


That’s the question I’m trying to answer for Dan Stepanian-Bennett. 

Dan came across my April post about Agra Hadig and wishes to try out this tradition on his two nephews in September.
When Dan asked his mother about this idea, he was surprised when she dismissed this custom as not actually being Armenian.

In my April story I included a passage from the Library of Congress which explains this topic, but I honestly cannot swear on a stack of Bibles as to whether the tradition of Agra Hadig  is 100% Armenian. 

Dan feels that many of the families who participate in this traditional activity are those who've lived in Middle Eastern countries such as Lebanon, Iran, Iraq, Syria, Jordan, etc. 

So, I’m reaching out to my Armenian Kitchen audience…
If anyone can shed some light on the country of origin of Agra Hadig, we’d love to hear from you either in a comment, or email: robyn@thearmeniankitchen.com.
Thanks very much!

Tipplers in Teheran Chose Armenian-made Arak as Their Beverage of Choice

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Although strongly discouraged by Iran’s conservative Muslim government, discreet alcohol consumption remained popular in some suburbs of the nation’s capital until international sanctions caused the price of imported vodka to triple in the past year.
But according to The Economist magazine, tipplers in Teheran are now toasting each other with arak supplied by the region’s enterprising Armenians.

Although Armenians in Iran have certainly been distilling the traditional raisin-based libation for centuries, there hadn’t been much demand for it outside their community until the price of popular vodkas such as Absolut skyrocketed.

“Posh drinkers of the better brands of whiskey and brandy, who would previously have been snooty about arak, are now turning to it,” the magazine reports.   The reason is that arak’s price has remained stable and cheap at the equivalent of $3 a liter. (Note to self: Order a case!)

For Armenians, the sudden popularity of arak has been a bonanza. “Many of my Armenian friends have left for America,” one arak dealer told the magazine. “But they all now say business is better here.”

The Economist reports that Armenian Christians are exempt from Iran’s no-drinking laws, although anyone selling the stuff in large quantities can be thrown in jail. For non-Armenians, there can be far more serious consequences to the arak craze.
Death, for instance.

A Muslim drinker arrested as a repeat offender can be executed, but even those who avoid government suspicion run other risks associated with a black market of unregulated home brew. One bad batch was blamed for 350 illnesses and six deaths in one week.
Anyone who wants peace of mind as well as a smooth drink should stick with the trusted source, the magazine reported.

“If your dealer isn’t Armenian don’t even think about getting it,” one consumer said.

Introducing … Loussine Agopian

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Nothing thrills us more than when we receive an email from a reader no matter where they live.  

We recently heard from Loussine Agopian, an Armenian living in Italy.  Loussine organizes cooking classes, inviting a different local (Armenian) cook each time who not only prepares a recipe from their region of origin, but also shares precious information about our Armenian traditions.
In addition, Loussine has created a website with the motto, 'One Nation, Thousand Kitchens', where you can find the recipes cooked in each class, plus recipes sent to her by Armenians around the world. Her ultimate goal is to create an open source of Armenian recipes organized by region and category.
This is where TheArmenianKitchen comes into the picture. Loussine asked if we would share some of our recipes for her project. Would we?? Naturally!!
The Armenian Kitchen’s goal – to preserve our ancestral recipes, culture, history, and traditions, and share it with our global audience - is similar to Loussine’s.

We salute Loussine for developing and carrying out her elaborate project.
Please check out her website and enjoy what it has to offer.

Basil, the Armenian Church, and Zesty Vegetable Soup

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Photo from the Eastern Diocese of the Armenian Church
Today, September 15th, the Armenian Church celebrates the Feast of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross (Khachveratz). At the end of the service, parishioners receive blessed basil, which can be used in recipes.
Basil Leaves
Basil, also known as rahan, is a sweet-smelling plant with leaves that vary in size. On this feast day, basil is used to decorate the cross because according to tradition,"the True Cross was overgrown with aromatic basil, which is used in the commemoration of the feast day today".

To learn more about the Feast of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross, please click here.

NOTEIn the early days of TheArmenianKitchen's existence, I wrote about the significance of basil in the Armenian Church, and provided a recipe for ‘Eggplant-ZucchiniBake’, which features this fragrant herb.

Here is another recipe using basil to add to your collection: 



Zesty Vegetable Soup with Basil
Yield: 5 to 6 servings

Ingredients:
    2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
    1 medium onion, diced
    ¼ to ½ tsp. cayenne pepper (the amount of heat is entirely up to you!), optional
    3 (14-ounce) cans vegetable, chicken or beef broth
    1 -15 oz. can diced tomatoes, with its liquid
    1 medium zucchini squash, diced
    4 cups escarole leaves, washed and torn into bite-sized pieces  [NOTE: Swiss chard or 
    1- (10 oz.) pkg. frozen spinach, (thawed) can be substituted]
    2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
    Salt and pepper, to taste
    1/4 cup chopped fresh basil for garnish
   

Directions:
1. In a large pot, add oil and heat on a medium setting. Add onion, cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until onions start to soften and turn brown, about 5 minutes. Add cayenne pepper, if using, and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds.
2. Add broth, tomatoes and zucchini; bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are just tender, about 7minutes. Stir in escarole, lemon juice, and salt and pepper; continue cooking until escarole is wilted, 5 to 7 minutes more. Ladle soup into bowls and garnish with fresh basil.


Avocado Hummus

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There’s no better gift to give (or receive) than fruit that is home-grown.  Doug and I were the fortunate recipients of just that kind of gift, complements of our guests, Onnik and Araksi Dinkjian. (Gifts are not a requirement when visiting the Kalajian home, however, they are graciously received, and shared when appropriate.)

What gift was bestowed upon us? A bag filled with Florida avocados! Florida's landscape yields a bounty of flora and home-grown produce, and the Dinkjians are blessed with a lovely, fruit-producing avocado tree just steps away from their back door.
Florida Avocados (www.specialtyproduce.com)

Some communities, such as the one in which Doug and I live, forbid any fruit-bearing trees on one’s property. (We should have read the fine print in the community documents before buying our house!) Our previous home’s back yard was lush with 2 avocado trees, plus mango, grapefruit, orange, and Ponderosa lemon trees. How we miss them all!

We are comforted in the fact that we live in the agricultural reserve area of our county, where there are numerous local fruit and vegetable markets, and u-pick-it farms.

Back to the avocados ... 

Avocado Hummus
After using most of the avocados in salads, on sandwiches, and mashed into guacamole, I decided to try it in something better associated with TheArmenianKitchen’s repertoire … hummus. It turned out to be a colorful, tasty variation on a familiar theme.
Give it a try!

Avocado Hummus

Ingredients:
1- 8 oz. can garbanzo beans (chick peas), drained and rinsed
3 Tbsp. tahini (sesame seed paste)
3 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
2 tsp. lime zest
1 medium garlic clove, crushed
¼ cup cilantro leaves, coarsely chopped
1 Tbsp. extra virgin Olive Oil
1 medium ripe avocado, cut into chunks
salt to taste

Directions:
1. Add all ingredients to a food processor and purée until smooth. Add salt to suit your taste.  If the mixture seems too thick, stir in a little water until the desired consistency is reached.
2. Place hummus mixture in a bowl. Press plastic wrap directly on the surface of the hummus to keep air out. This helps to prevent browning.
3. Store in refrigerator until ready to serve.
4. Serve with vegetable dippers, pita bread triangles, pita chips or homemade whole wheat crackers.

Apple Dolma

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It’s autumn in North America which means the new crop of apple varieties are readily available in the markets.

One of TheArmenianKitchen’s readers/contributors, Lindsay Peckham, asked me to recommend an apple that would best suit the apple dolma recipe she wished to make from the AGBU’s cookbook, ‘Treasured Armenian Recipes’.
The Peckham's Apple Dolma

Since apple preferences are such a personal thing, and apple characteristics and uses vary, I suggested she check out the useful information from The Farmers' Almanac website.
Lindsay did just that, and decided Granny Smith apples would be perfect. There were some issues with the clarity of the recipe, however. For instance, the first ingredient listed in the recipe read: “enough apples”. How many does that mean??

I reminded Lindsay that the older generation had no written recipes, and if they did, the instructions left a lot to one’s imagination. 

Once Lindsay decided on the Granny Smith apple, she made the dolma with her husband’s help.

Here’s Lindsay’s report on their apple dolma experience:

“My husband Jay and I made the apple dolma. I found the inside mixture very easy to make, but coring the apples was difficult to say the least. The first two we did we went right through the bottom. And of course once they were cored we had to cut around even wider to make room for the filling. The texture of the apple does not make this an easy feat. Even though two had holes in the bottom we still filled them with the mixture because we didn't want to waste the apples. Surprisingly, they turned out fine and none of the filling came out. We used Granny Smith apples. We paired the dolma with some rotisserie chicken we bought at the store and voila! A wonderful Fall meal!

While I followed the ‘Treasured Armenian Cookbook’ recipe, I was a little disappointed in the vagueness of the recipe. For example, they don't say approx. how many apples to use, instead they just say "enough apples". Also, they never say whether to peel the apples or not. My assumption was to peel them, but I was so caught up in coring them and thinking about the next step that I totally forgot to peel them until it was too late! The recipe also called for 1 cup of sugar and I had loads of sugar left over. I'm not sure if I didn't use enough, but it seemed like if I had used the whole cup it would have been way too much.



Comedy of errors aside, I would absolutely make them again, however, it would be difficult to have to make a lot! We made 5 which was probably too many for the first time making it.”

I’m glad Lindsay didn’t peel the apples since the skin helps the apples to hold their shape during baking. Her selection of the Granny Smith apples was an excellent choice because the tartness of the apple balanced the sweetness of the sugar in the recipe.

Bravo to Lindsay and Jay! We thank you for sharing your culinary experiment with us all.

Here is the recipe the Peckhams prepared:
Apple Dolma from”Treasured Armenian Recipes”, Detroit chapter of the Armenian General Benevolent Union, Inc.
(NOTE: The cookbook recommends this to be served with pork, ham, or turkey.)
Ingredients:
Enough apples
½ cup rice
½ cup raisins
1 quart boiling water
1 tsp. salt
1 cup sugar
¼ cup melted butter
cinnamon
Directions:
Step #1
1.  Slice off the tops of the apples and save. Core the apples removing a sufficient amount of the apples to allow for filling with mixture as described below. Use approximately ¼ cup sugar by sprinkling it in the apples that have the center removed.
2. Add rice to boiling water and cook ten minutes. Add raisins and cook 5 minutes more. Remove from heat and strain the water from the mixture; pour cold water over mixture and strain again. Add ¼ cup sugar and butter to above mixture.
3. Fill the apples with rice and raisin mixture; add ¼ tsp. cinnamon to the top of each apple. Cover with apple top that was removed; sprinkle a little sugar on each apple and arrange in baking dish. Put 2 cups of boiling water in bottom of baking dish to which the remaining sugar has been added.
Step #2
Step #3
4. Cover baking dish and bake in 350°F oven until apples are soft, about 30 minutes. Baste apples with liquid from the bottom of the dish from time to time. When apples are almost cooked, remove cover, and bake another 10 minutes.

Celery Stew with Kufteh Balls and Egg-Lemon Sauce

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When one has a craving for a certain recipe, they’re not satisfied until they experience  the lingering flavor of that special food. 

Aunt Arpie
Such was the case recently with my aunt Arpie. We discuss recipes all the time. She often shares her childhood Armenian favorites with me, and this time she was craving ‘Celery Stew with Kufteh Balls’. 

The manner in which Aunt Arpie describes a recipe is sheer poetry. Her description of the celery stew was so heavenly, she made my mouth water! Since she’s not cooking much these days, I promised to prepare her celery stew recipe, making enough to share with her.


Celery Stew with Kufteh Balls
Aunt Arpie’s  Celery Stew (Geragoor) with Kufteh Balls and Egg-Lemon Sauce

Serves 4-6

To make Kufteh balls:
(Makes about 24 kufteh balls)
1. Combine until well-mixed:
Kufteh balls
  •    1 lb. lean ground lamb, beef or turkey
  •    1/3 to ½ cup fine (#1) bulgur
  •   1/4 cup finely chopped onion, optional
  •    Salt, pepper, ground coriander, cayenne pepper, allspice, paprika – according to your taste
2. Shape into balls the size of large marbles. Place on a plate.
3. Cover and refrigerate until ready to add to the stew.

Ingredients for the celery stew:
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1 bunch celery, thoroughly washed, and cut into 1-inch chunks
1 medium onion, coarsely chopped
2 to 3 cloves garlic, minced
4 cups broth (chicken, beef, or vegetable) – add a bit more, if needed
Salt and pepper to taste

Ingredients for sauce:
2 egg yolks, beaten
Juice of 1 lemon

Directions for the celery stew:
Stew Step #1
Stew Step #2
1. In a large pot, heat olive oil. Sautė celery, onions and garlic in the oil for about 5 minutes.
2. Add broth and kufteh balls. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low. Partially cover pot. Cook for about 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until vegetables are tender and kufteh balls are cooked through.

Directions for the Sauce:
1. In a small bowl, mix together the egg yolks and lemon juice.
2. Spoon a little of the hot broth into the egg-lemon mixture, stirring briskly to prevent the egg from coagulating. (This process is called tempering.)
3. Slowly stir the tempered egg-lemon mixture into the large pot of celery stew. Cook gently for another 5 minutes.
4. Serve immediately with a loaf of crusty bread.

Recipe Variation:
The celery stew can also be made with lamb neck bones with meat instead of the kufteh balls. NOTE: This procedure should be done a day in advance.

Recipe Variation Procedure: If using the lamb bones, cook them in a pot with enough water to cover the bones. Bring to a boil, skimming-off any scum that rises to the surface. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook, partially covered, for about 1hour, or until the meat is tender. Remove neck bones from the broth. Allow to cool enough to so that the meat can be removed from the bones. Discard the bones. Store meat, covered, in the refrigerator until ready to add to the celery stew (in step #2 of celery stew directions).

Chicken Noodle Soup with Lemon and Egg - and How to Temper an Egg WITH A NEW VIDEO!

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Some cooking techniques sound more daunting than they actually are. ‘Tempering’ is one of them. If a recipe instructed you to ‘temper an egg’, would you know what to do? 

Chicken Noodle soup with Lemon and Egg
Fear not; that’s why TheArmenianKitchen is here! Not only will we share the definition of ‘tempering’ with you, we have a new video which demonstrates how this technique is applied to one of our favorite recipes - Chicken Noodle Soup with Lemon and Egg. It’s delicious, and so easy to make.

The Definition: ‘Tempering eggs’ means to raise the temperature of beaten eggs or egg yolks so they won’t curdle when hot ingredients are added to them.


The Recipe: Chicken Noodle Soup with Lemon and Egg
Serves 3-4

Ingredients:
4- 5 cups chicken broth or stock (homemade or commercially prepared)
Juice of one lemon
1 large handful of thin, short noodles
2 egg yolks
½ c. to 1 c. cooked, chopped chicken, optional

Directions:
1. Bring the chicken broth to a rolling boil. Add the lemon juice and noodles; cook until noodles are tender, about 5-6minutes. If noodles have absorbed too much of the broth, add another cup. Add the pre-cooked chicken pieces, if using, and cook one more minute. Remove pot from heat.
2. In a small bowl, lightly beat the egg yolks.
3. To temper the egg mixture: Slowly ladle a little of the hot chicken broth into the beaten eggs, whisking constantly, to prevent the egg yolks from cooking. Add another ladle or two of the hot broth into the egg, continuing to beat constantly.
4. Once the egg yolks are tempered, slowly stir the egg mixture into the soup. The tempered eggs will thicken the soup nicely without the addition of flour or cornstarch.
Serve immediately.

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